Mercado 20 de Noviembre

Mercado 20 de Noviembre – Oaxaca, Mexico

Overview

Mercado 20 de Noviembre is one of Oaxaca City’s most famous markets, a bustling culinary hub where locals and travelers come together to savor the flavors of southern Mexico. Just a short walk from the city’s Zócalo, the market is renowned for its smoky meat hall—nicknamed the “Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas”—where vendors grill meats to order and serve them with tortillas, salsas, and fresh vegetables. Beyond grilled meats, the market offers a treasure trove of Oaxacan specialties: rich mole sauces, fresh tlayudas, tamales wrapped in banana leaves, artisanal chocolate, and the fiery local spirit, mezcal. More than just a place to eat, Mercado 20 de Noviembre is a cultural experience that embodies Oaxaca’s deep culinary traditions and communal atmosphere.

Why Visit

• Sample authentic Oaxacan dishes, including mole, tlayudas, and grilled meats
• Experience the lively atmosphere of one of the city’s most beloved food markets
• Explore the famous “meat hall,” where stalls compete for your attention with sizzling grills
• Shop for artisanal chocolate, mole paste, and mezcal to take home
• Enjoy a cultural experience that reflects the heart of Oaxacan daily life

Highlights

• Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas: The legendary meat hall where you choose cuts of meat, have them grilled on the spot, and enjoy them with fresh tortillas and salsas
• Mole Varieties: Try mole negro, mole coloradito, and mole amarillo—sauces that define Oaxacan cuisine
• Tlayudas: Oversized tortillas topped with beans, cheese, lettuce, and often meat, sometimes called “Oaxacan pizza”
• Local Chocolate: Freshly ground cacao mixed with cinnamon and sugar, a specialty of the region
• Mezcal Stalls: Taste artisanal mezcal from nearby villages, often served with orange slices and sal de gusano (worm salt)

History & Cultural Significance

Mercado 20 de Noviembre is named after the start of the Mexican Revolution on November 20, 1910, a reminder of the city’s political and cultural heritage. Since its creation, the market has grown into one of Oaxaca’s central culinary landmarks. It plays an essential role in preserving and celebrating Oaxacan gastronomy, which is recognized as part of Mexico’s UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. The market is not only where locals shop and dine but also where visitors can immerse themselves in the flavors that define the region, from ancient pre-Hispanic traditions to modern street food culture.

Typical Costs & Tickets

Entry to the market is free. Meals at Mercado 20 de Noviembre are affordable, with grilled meat plates costing around 120–200 MXN ($7–$12 USD), tlayudas between 80–120 MXN ($5–$7 USD), and tamales around 40 MXN ($2–$3 USD). Mole paste and artisanal chocolate sold by weight typically cost 100–250 MXN ($6–$15 USD) depending on the quality and size. Mezcal tastings range in price but are generally 50–100 MXN ($3–$6 USD) per pour.

Best Time to Visit

The market is open daily, with mornings and afternoons being the most active. Arriving around lunchtime ensures the best selection of freshly grilled meats in the Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas. Evenings offer a more relaxed atmosphere, perfect for sampling mezcal or enjoying a late dinner. Visiting on weekends can be especially lively, as more locals gather with friends and family.

Nearby Experiences

Located just two blocks south of Oaxaca’s main square, Mercado 20 de Noviembre is perfectly positioned for a day of exploring. Nearby attractions include the Zócalo, the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, and the Benito Juárez Market, which offers crafts and textiles. For art lovers, the Macedonio Alcalá Theater and local galleries are within walking distance. Food enthusiasts may also enjoy joining a cooking class in Oaxaca, many of which include a stop at this market to purchase fresh ingredients.

Travel Tips

• Bring cash in pesos—most vendors do not accept cards
• Be ready for the smoke and aromas in the Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas—it’s part of the charm
• Try a little of everything: tlayudas, mole, tamales, and chocolate drinks are musts
• If buying mole paste or mezcal, ask vendors for storage tips if you plan to take them home
• Visit with an empty stomach—the portions are generous and the variety is irresistible

Fun Facts & Local Legends

• The Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas is often called “the smokiest street in Oaxaca” because of the dense clouds of grill smoke
• Oaxacan chocolate, sold here in discs or bars, is traditionally used for hot chocolate or mole, not just as candy
• Some mole recipes sold in the market can contain over 30 different ingredients
• The market’s lively energy has made it a favorite filming location for food documentaries and travel shows