Seljalandsfoss: Iceland's Waterfall You Can Walk Behind

Seljalandsfoss is one of the few waterfalls in the world where you can actually walk behind the curtain of water. Located along Route 1, Iceland's famous Ring Road, about 30 minutes east of Hella in the South Iceland lowlands, it drops roughly 60 meters off an ancient sea cliff into a shallow pool below. That cliffside path behind the falls is what draws people back, even those who've already seen a dozen Icelandic waterfalls.

It's not the biggest waterfall in Iceland. It's not even the most powerful. But the experience of standing in the hollow behind that wall of falling water, with the Icelandic landscape framing itself through the mist, is genuinely hard to replicate anywhere else on the island.

Why Seljalandsfoss Matters

Most waterfalls offer one view. You stand in front, take a photo, move on. Seljalandsfoss offers a full loop. The path curves around and behind the falls, tucking into a shallow cave carved out of the old cliffline over thousands of years. The geology here is significant: this entire stretch of South Iceland was once a coastline, and the basalt cliffs that line the area are the remnants of that ancient shoreline. The water from Seljalandsfoss originates from Eyjafjallajokull, the glacier-capped volcano that became internationally known after its 2010 eruption disrupted European air travel for weeks.

That connection to Eyjafjallajokull adds a layer to the visit that goes beyond the scenery. The water you're watching fall has come off the same volcano that grounded thousands of flights. It's one of those small reminders that Iceland's landscape is still actively being written.

Quick Facts

• Height: approximately 60 meters
• Water source: Eyjafjallajokull glacier
• Location: off Route 1, roughly 30 minutes east of Hella
• Behind-the-falls path: accessible in most seasons, closed in winter due to ice
• Entry: a small parking fee applies, but access to the waterfall itself is free
• Nearby: Gljufrabui waterfall is a 5-minute walk north along the cliff
• Facilities: toilets and a small cafe at the parking area

Getting There

Seljalandsfoss sits right off Route 1, and the turnoff is well signposted. If you're driving from Reykjavik, you're looking at roughly 2 hours depending on stops. From Hella it's closer to 30 minutes east. There's a large car park at the base with space for both cars and coaches, though it fills quickly during peak summer months.

No public bus stops directly at the falls, so a rental car or organized tour is effectively your only realistic option. Most South Iceland day tours from Reykjavik include Seljalandsfoss as a stop, often pairing it with Skogafoss and the Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon further east. If you're self-driving the Ring Road, it's an easy pull-off that costs you maybe 45 minutes to an hour out of your day.

The Experience: What It's Actually Like

The path to the waterfall from the car park takes under 5 minutes on flat ground. You'll hear it before you see it. The sound builds as you approach, and by the time you're at the base looking up at that 60-meter drop, the spray is already reaching you.

The loop path around the back starts on the left side of the falls and curves behind the curtain on a narrow rocky trail. Expect to get wet. Not damp, wet. The spray soaks everything, and the rocks underfoot are slippery year-round. Waterproof gear matters here more than at almost any other stop on the South Iceland circuit.

The hollow behind the falls is not enormous. It's a shallow overhang rather than a deep cave, which means you're still very much inside the experience of the waterfall rather than safely observing it from a dry alcove. The sound at that point is total. Conversation is basically impossible.

Coming out the other side, the path continues past the cliff face and loops back around to the front. The whole circuit takes most people around 15 to 20 minutes, though you'll likely stop several times for photos.

Don't Miss Gljufrabui

About 5 minutes north along the same cliff face is Gljufrabui, a waterfall that most visitors walk straight past. It's hidden inside a narrow canyon slot in the rock, and you genuinely can't see it from the path. To reach it you either wade a shallow stream or hop across on stones, then squeeze through a crack in the cliff wall. Inside, the falls drop into a small enclosed chamber that feels completely removed from the world outside.

If Seljalandsfoss draws the crowds, Gljufrabui rewards the curious. Go there first if you can, before tour groups arrive, and you might have it entirely to yourself.

Best Time to Visit

Summer, roughly June through August, gives you the best conditions for the behind-the-falls path. The trail is officially closed in winter when ice makes it dangerous. Even in late autumn and early spring the rocks can be treacherous, so if you're visiting outside summer months, check conditions before attempting the loop.

For crowds, early morning is your best bet. Most tour buses from Reykjavik arrive mid-morning, and the car park gets genuinely chaotic by midday in July. If you can arrive before 9am you'll share the falls with far fewer people. Late evening in summer works too, since Iceland's long daylight hours mean you can visit at 9 or 10pm with full light and a fraction of the crowd.

Winter visits have their own appeal. The falls don't freeze entirely, and on clear days the surrounding landscape covered in snow is striking. You just won't be able to walk behind the water. Some years the spray freezes into dramatic ice formations around the cliff edges, which draws photographers specifically for that.

Photography Tips

The classic shot is taken from the front left of the falls, with the long exposure smoothing the water into silk and the green cliff framing the right side of the frame. Most people take this exact photo. To get something different, try shooting from directly underneath looking up at the full 60-meter drop, or from inside the behind-the-falls path looking outward through the curtain of water toward the flat South Iceland plain.

Protect your lens. The spray is relentless and reaches further than you'd expect. A lens cloth in your jacket pocket is essential, and a waterproof bag or rain cover for your camera body is worth the trouble. Polarizing filters help cut the glare off the wet rocks.

Golden hour in summer, when the sun sits low on the horizon in the late evening, throws warm light across the water that you won't get at midday. If you're serious about photography, the extra drive back in the evening is worth it.

Practical Tips

• Wear waterproof trousers and a waterproof jacket, not just a rain shell. The spray is full-body.
• Grippy footwear matters. The rocks behind the falls are consistently slick regardless of season.
• The behind-the-falls path is narrow. Let people through rather than stopping mid-trail for photos.
• Parking fills fast in peak season. Arriving before 9am or after 7pm significantly reduces wait times.
• Walk north to Gljufrabui before the tour coaches arrive for the best chance of having it to yourself.
• The small cafe at the car park is a reasonable stop for coffee and basic snacks, especially if you're driving a long stretch of Route 1.
• Phone signal is inconsistent here. Download offline maps and any directions before you leave the main road.

Combining With Nearby Attractions

Skogafoss, another major South Iceland waterfall, is about 30 minutes east along Route 1. It's a completely different experience: massive, thunderous, and with a staircase climbing 370 steps up the cliff beside it to a viewing platform at the top. Most people do both in the same morning without any issue.

The Eyjafjallajokull visitor center near Thorvaldseyri farm is just a few minutes from Seljalandsfoss and gives context to the 2010 eruption that made the volcano famous. It's a short stop but a good one if you want to understand the landscape you're driving through.

Further east, the black sand beaches at Reynisfjara near Vik are around an hour away and make for a logical afternoon addition. The basalt columns and sea stacks there connect visually to the same geological story playing out along this whole stretch of coastline.

FAQ

Can you walk behind Seljalandsfoss in winter? The path is typically closed from late autumn through early spring due to ice. Conditions vary by year, so check locally before visiting outside summer.

Do you need to book in advance? No booking is required. You pay for parking on arrival. The waterfall itself has open access.

How long should you budget for a visit? Allow at least an hour, more if you plan to visit Gljufrabui as well. Two hours gives you time to dry off, grab a coffee, and not feel rushed.

Is it accessible with young children or mobility limitations? The flat path from the car park to the front of the falls is easy going. The behind-the-falls loop involves uneven, slippery rocks and is not suitable for strollers or anyone with significant mobility challenges.

Is Seljalandsfoss worth it if you've already seen other Icelandic waterfalls? The behind-the-falls path makes it genuinely different. Even if you've stood in front of Skogafoss or Godafoss, walking behind a waterfall is a different thing entirely. Most people who do both say Seljalandsfoss is the more memorable experience.