A saltwater lagoon behind Ipanema and Leblon, connected to the sea by a narrow canal and ringed by a flat seven-and-a-half kilometre path that is one of the busiest recreational routes in the city. Cariocas run and cycle it from first light and again at dusk, and the kiosks around the edge serve everything from coconut water to full meals with Corcovado lit up behind. Pedal boats go out on the water. It is a good first evening in Rio: easy, safe enough in the lit sections, and entirely local.