Three square blocks of market west of downtown, billed as the largest Mexican marketplace in the country — El Mercado proper with its stalls of pottery, leather and textiles, the Farmers Market building beside it, and Mi Tierra's bakery running around the clock at the edge. It is firmly aimed at visitors and the goods reflect that. It earns its place anyway: the food is good, the mariachis are real, and it is the one part of downtown that feels continuous with the city's Mexican history rather than commemorating it.