A full-size reproduction of a traditional Antioquian village — whitewashed walls, a church, a fountain, a few craft shops — built on top of Cerro Nutibara, a hill that sits more or less in the middle of Medellin. Nobody pretends it is old. The reason to make the climb is the view, which takes in the whole valley and is the easiest way to understand the city's shape: a long narrow bowl with barrios running up both sides. Sunset is the hour; a taxi up and a walk down is the usual pattern.