A vast neo-baroque market hall opened in 1933, with stained-glass windows by Conrado Sorgenicht Filho over aisles of fruit, cured meat, cheese and spices. Two things pull visitors upstairs: the mortadella sandwich, stacked absurdly high, and the pastel de bacalhau. Both are overpriced and both are worth doing once. The ground-floor stalls are where the city actually shops, and the fruit vendors hand out samples with a persistence that is part of the experience. Mornings are best; it winds down mid-afternoon.