The state picture gallery, founded in 1905 and holding the deepest collection of Brazilian art in the country — Almeida Junior, Portinari, Tarsila do Amaral, through to contemporary work. The 1990s renovation by Paulo Mendes da Rocha stripped the neoclassical brick building back and roofed the courtyards in glass, and the building is now as admired as the collection. It sits beside the Luz station and the Jardim da Luz; the surrounding streets are rough, so arrive by metro and leave before dark.