A restaurant in the centre working from the cuisines of southeastern Mexico — Yucatán, Chiapas, Oaxaca — rather than the Bajío's own: cochinita, relleno negro, things cooked in banana leaf and a mezcal list to match. The room is a colonial courtyard with the kitchen opening onto it. It has been one of the more interesting kitchens in the city for several years and books up at weekends, so reserve.